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Post by treyd on Apr 11, 2011 12:07:12 GMT -5
I know there are at least 2 others out there besides myself that own a DESC410R. I heard 2 of you weren't able to finish the race yesterday. I hobbled through the race and broke down in 2 heats. I just wanted to create a thread where we can share some info about this truck with each other. I will say i've replaced my front and rear A-arm hangers with the optional aluminum ones and didn't have any A-arm joint breaks or A-arm breaks yesterday, but I also managed to avoid any serious wrecks. I did have a screw holding a shock piston in place back out. I'm going to tear down tonight and take a look at all the sub-systems to see where its at. I don't want to use loctite on this as you should be able to tune your piston thicknesses if you desire. Lastly I'm pretty sure I had a sun gear in the rear or front diff strip. I heard some talk about this on RC tech and I think it finally got me. Since this issue came out Durango has posted a much more detailed build guide on the diff assembly but I don't think it gets to the root of the problem. If you read the center diff installation guide it appears the anodizing on the shafts was not accounted for in thickness on the shafts and the gears don't get seated properly without sanding. (they say for easier assembly, I say proper assembly) I'm going to rebuild my diffs using some of the same steps they used on the center diff. If you didn't get a clean build on the diffs I would go ahead and order some extra gears. I had a feeling my was a bit tight but I thought it would settle in. Guess not... www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=2891 |
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Post by treyd on Apr 13, 2011 10:17:22 GMT -5
So I broke down the front and rear diffs...
Front was fine solid no issues.
The rear right gear box insert bracket Durango part number TD340019, was cracked right at the screw point.
I've ordered the aluminum replacements Durango part number TD310006 and 7.
As a result of the crack (which I should have caught after it happened), I believe the diff case was not held down properly during the race and and the outdrive bevel gear TD310005 didn't stay in alignment cutting into the ring gear TD310004. So I've also got these gears on order.
This appears to be happening to alot of people because these particular gears and gear box inserts are hard to find from the same store. And the entire diff set which is $40 is sold out at quite a few places.
I'd invest in aluminum gearbox inserts if you have this truck if the gear box isn't held in place just right or you have some play from a small crack, it could cost you big and repeatedly.
I'll post some pics of the gears later.
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mej
Junior Member
Posts: 12
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Post by mej on Apr 13, 2011 13:07:32 GMT -5
i blew out my front a arm suspension holder 3 times. i havent made it through a charged battery yet which is pretty frustrating. But i did order the aluminum upgrade pieces for this so i hope this will fix the problem.
that problem with the shock piston also happened to me and my dad. (my dad has the other durango). he also had to replace his diff gear and i think he is going to upgrade to the center diff also.
good thread, i want to see the pics of what you are doing with your diffs.
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mej
Junior Member
Posts: 12
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Post by mej on Apr 13, 2011 13:12:12 GMT -5
also, what set up are you running with (motor, esc, remote)?
are you running with the stock shocks?
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Post by treyd on Apr 15, 2011 11:21:47 GMT -5
Hey Mej, I'm running the stock shocks. They make a Loctite intended to be removable and for M2 screws which is what I believe these are, don't have my manual in front of me to check. Its Loctite 222ms, you can order it from McMaster Carr here: www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-222ms/=bvz7o1I'm running a Tekin RX8 ESC and Tekin SC4x 5.5t 4000kv motor. My radio is a POS compared to the specktrums its an Airtronics Sportsman MX. I should have my parts in hand tonight, so I can start repairs. The gear I stripped is cast and made of zinc. The bevel gear that stripped it is made of Steel. Steel wins against zinc every time. This is somewhat unfortunate for the design of this truck so I'm going to be checking to see if all my gearboxes are seated properly after every run. The new alum gear box insert brackets TD310006 and 7 should do the trick though. Here's a pic of the ring gear, you can see how the teeth have been cut down. Attachments:
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Post by treyd on Apr 15, 2011 11:23:17 GMT -5
Here a pick of the insert bracket that I'm replacing with the alum. You can see where the screw hole has cracked off. I'll post some pics of the repair once I have my parts. Attachments:
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mej
Junior Member
Posts: 12
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Post by mej on Apr 16, 2011 18:50:47 GMT -5
i got my aluminum replacement parts in so i put those in. while i had it disassembled i took the diffs apart to check them. i have the same problem. no teeth on the big gear. this might have pushed me over the edge with this truck. my dad blew both of his and so did you. i havent ran my car for a full battery yet!!!!
every review i read of this truck talks very bad about these diffs. i am upgrade the slipper clutch to the center diff to see if that helps. if it happens again im selling it. i can understand parts breaking from bashing them but for the diffs to break so much on every model it seems is really discouraging. im tired of this thing breaking so easily and often. i dont hear about these problems with Losi or other trucks
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mej
Junior Member
Posts: 12
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Post by mej on Apr 18, 2011 13:23:10 GMT -5
talked to durango today. that crown gear is getting machined so this problem wont happen anymore. should be out in a couple months. that is great news to me!
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Post by treyd on Apr 18, 2011 13:53:50 GMT -5
Cool! Yeh I just got off the phone with them as well. Even though I paid for a new crown gear, they are sending me a couple for free. Raced yesterday and made it through three races with no issues. 4th race both rear bulk heads snapped in half on a clean landing from a jump. I did have a couple of bad crashes prior to that so I may have cracked it then broke on landing. Durango is saying that these are the 2 major issues right now. The crown gear as you said and the rear bulk heads. They are sending me new rear bulk heads as well (1 pair) but its free so I'll take it. You may want to go ahead and order some rear bulk heads just in case. I told them that there was no way the current crown gear was cast steel as advertised. Casting pure steel into a gear is unheard of and I'm pretty sure impossible. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_casting The rep wanted to argue that this is what die cast means, that its cast out of steel. BS!!!! I told the guy look I didn't call to tell you the truck is a POS. I called to get some support. He finally settled down and tried to work with me. I'm not giving up on this truck yet but I'm damn near close. |
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mej
Junior Member
Posts: 12
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Post by mej on Apr 22, 2011 12:32:42 GMT -5
ran for about 40 minutes this morning. only one part broke and it was quickly fixable. the piston came off of one of my shocks so i quickly fixed it.
i rebuilt both diffs this week and upgraded to the center slipperential. i plan on breaking it down again to see how the diffs held up. no a arm problems since switching to the aluminum upgrade on the suspension holders. longest ive been able to play with this truck so im happy with that.
i also loosened up the slipper alot.
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mej
Junior Member
Posts: 12
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Post by mej on Apr 27, 2011 18:06:48 GMT -5
ive gone through about 4 more batteries now and drove real hard and no breaks. This truck is awesome now since i switched to the slipperential. i even tighten up the slipper clutch and still no differential problems.
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Post by hairman on May 1, 2011 18:59:19 GMT -5
After you upgrade the parts the Durango is awsome
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Post by hairman on May 1, 2011 19:05:32 GMT -5
loosen the slipper,and build a new center slipper diff.and you will not have any more problems.
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Post by hairman on May 1, 2011 20:22:21 GMT -5
Treyd ' happy birthday
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Post by treyd on May 4, 2011 10:16:12 GMT -5
Loosened the slipper and have not had any diff problems. I have been trying to get my hands on the center diff conversion and everyone is sold out! If you know a place that has one in stock please let me know asap. I managed to break an a-arm at the last club race and as a result stripped out a shock cap. I ended up missing the Charity Race because the only way to get one without paying $60 in shipping is to buy the entire rear shock kit. So I finally sucked it up and did this last night.... jeez 54$ just to get a $10 part. Well at least now I have extra shock parts. As soon as I can find a center diff I'll buy it.
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